Estudo comparativo da resistência de linhas de costura 100% poliéster: fio fiado e core spun utilizadas no processo de montagem de artigos confeccionados em tafetá de gramatura leve

Abstract

The knowledge of the properties and behavior of sewing threads is fundamental to ensuring the quality of the sewing process and final product. The sewability of the sewing thread is a term used to describe its performance during and after the sewing productive process. This work aimed to analyze and compare the performance properties of the sewing threads: spun thread 100% polyester and core spun 100% polyester, related to the tensile strength and elongation at break, post sewing in plain fabric – light weight taffeta. Industrial sewing methods were used to join fabrics with the sewing class SS, as well as settings on the sewing machine ­ type 301 to obtain a speed of 3000 rpm, stitch length in 3,5 mm and the placement of a DPx5 needle Nm 70 R and Nm 90 R. A sewing disassembly technique was used to obtain the thread samples, in order to measure the performance of its properties based on the ABNT NBR 13375: 1995 standard. The results obtained demonstrated that the threads after the sewing process showed a loss of tensile strength, being characterized by tenacity loss. It was found that the different sizes of needles used to sew, interfere in the result of the resistance of the spun thread sewing thread. However, regardless of the type of needle used in the sewing process, it concludes that the loss of tenacity of the investigated sewing threads is linked to the structure of the sewing thread.