A modelagem no ateliê de moda festa e noiva: um estudo de caso

Abstract

This dissertation investigates garment patternmaking techniques, these fundamental elements in the construction of fashion garments, a topic that has been widely discussed in recent research. However, most studies address flat patternmaking and three-dimensional patternmaking separately, treating each technique in isolation during the garment development process. When articulated in a hybrid manner, existing studies are predominantly focused on pedagogical and experimental contexts. Considering this scenario, this research aimed to understand, within a real production context, how patternmaking is employed in the development of garments in a bridal and eveningwear atelier, as well as to identify the types of garments produced and understand the factors influencing decisions related to the choice of patternmaking techniques. To achieve these objectives, the study adopts a single case study methodology associated with autoethnography, considering that the researcher is both the patternmaker and owner of the investigated atelier. The research was structured through a mixed analytical approach, combining quantitative and qualitative analyses. Quantitative analysis enabled the mapping of the garments produced and the identification of skirt, neckline, and sleeve typologies, while qualitative analysis made it possible to understand the patternmaking processes, constructive resources, technical challenges, and forms of integration between the techniques employed. The results demonstrate that hybrid patternmaking constitutes a recurring practice within the analyzed context, especially in garment sections that require greater anatomical precision, volumetric definition, and more complex constructive solutions. It was observed that flat patternmaking acts as an important tool for structural organization, whereas three-dimensional patternmaking contributes to adjustments, experimentation, and refinements carried out directly on the dress form. Therefore, the research contributed to broadening academic discussions on product development within the textile and fashion industry specifically regarding garment pattern making in real-world professional contexts by systematizing interdisciplinary knowledge derived from the tacit expertise of artisanal craftsmanship in the bespoke eveningwear and bridal sectors.