Creme hidratante multifuncional com extrato de Hypochaeris radicata: desenvolvimento, caracterização e avaliação das atividades fotoprotetora e antioxidante

Abstract

The growing interest in natural and multifunctional cosmetics has driven the search for new ingredients capable of combining antioxidant and photoprotective properties in skin care formulations. In this context, the unconventional food plant (UFP) Hypochaeris radicata stands out due to the presence of phenolic compounds and flavonoids with potential cosmetic applications. Therefore, this study aimed to develop a moisturizing cream containing H. radicata extract and to evaluate its antioxidant, photoprotective, and stability properties. Initially, the extraction conditions of bioactive compounds were optimized using a Box–Behnken experimental design, evaluating the effects of extraction time (10-60 minutes), ethanol concentration (5-95%), and temperature (25-60°C) on the in vitro Sun Protection Factor (SPF) of extracts obtained from flowers and flower buds. The optimal conditions were established as 60 minutes of extraction, 57.5% ethanol, and 60 °C. Under these conditions, the flower bud extract showed an SPF of 19.95 ± 0.47, higher than that obtained for the flower extract (14.32 ± 0.43), and was therefore selected for subsequent analyses. The optimized extract exhibited antioxidant activity of 98.76 ± 4.81 µmol TE/g by the ABTS•+ assay, 33.13 ± 1.56 µmol TE/g by the DPPH• assay, and 145.50 ± 5.42 µmol Fe (II)/g by the FRAP assay, in addition to a total phenolic content of 24.30 ± 1.46 mg GAE/g of dry plant material. Emulsions containing different concentrations of the plant extract were developed, and the formulation containing 10% extract was selected after preliminary stability tests. During the partial accelerated stability evaluation over 45 days, the formulations maintained visual stability, with no phase separation and suitable pH, water activity, and spreadability values. It was concluded that H. radicata has potential as a natural active ingredient in multifunctional cosmetic formulations, combining antioxidant activity, ultraviolet radiation absorption, and satisfactory physicochemical stability, thus contributing to the valorization of unconventional food plants as sustainable sources of raw materials for the cosmetic industry.