Desenvolvimento de preenchedor dérmico biossintético à base de celulose bacteriana

Abstract

Skin aging and the growing demand for minimally invasive aesthetic procedures have driven the dermal filler market, with hyaluronic acid being the most widely used product. However, its high cost and the need for chemical crosslinking agents, which may be associated with adverse reactions, motivate the search for more sustainable and biocompatible alternatives. In this context, bacterial cellulose (BC) emerges as a promising low-cost biopolymer aligned with the principles of using cosmetics with a clean and conscious productive chain, called Green Cosmetics. The aim of this study was to develop and characterize a bacterial cellulose-based hydrogel for application as an injectable dermal filler. The methodology involved the production of bacterial cellulose from the symbiotic kombucha system, followed by purification, hydrogel formulation, and ionic crosslinking. The formulated gel was characterized in terms of injectability, swelling capacity, cohesiveness, and rheological properties. The results demonstrated that the BC hydrogel exhibits excellent injectability, being able to pass through fine-gauge needles (27G and 30G), and displays a solid-like viscoelastic behavior (G' > G''), with storage modulus (G') values ranging from 400 to 800 Pa, comparable to commercial hyaluronic acid dermal fillers. These characteristics indicate that the material possesses suitable, mechanical and rheological properties for tissue support and volumization. Furthermore, a theoretical techno-economic analysis and simulation, based on literature data, was carried out to compare the production process of bacterial cellulose hydrogel with hyaluronic acid fillers, revealing an average cost reduction of 57%. It is concluded that the developed bacterial cellulose hydrogel is technically viable as a promising biosynthetic dermal filler, offering an innovative and effective solution with the potential for lower production costs.