Avaliação toxicológica e efeito citoreparador de creme a base de rosa mosqueta e tensoativo Crodafos CES: avaliações in vitro e in vivo

Abstract

Rosehip is widely used in cosmetics due to its regenerative and healing properties, with the oil extracted from the plant being a valued ingredient in topical formulations. This study aimed to evaluate the toxicity and the cytoprotective/cytorepair potential of a cosmetic emulsion based on Rosehip oil formulated with the surfactant Crodafos™ CES. The cream was developed as an oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion by combining the aqueous and oily phases, with homogenization under mechanical stirring and controlled cooling to ensure stability. After formulation, the product was characterized in terms of type, physicochemical stability, and structural integrity. Centrifugation tests, thermal stress tests, cytotoxicity assays, and cytoprotection/cytorepair assays against ultraviolet B (UVB) radiation (using the MTT assay with NIH/3T3 fibroblasts) were performed, as well as in vivo skin corrosion testing using earthworms as an alternative model. The results showed that the emulsion is of the oil-in-water (O/W) type and demonstrated satisfactory stability in centrifugation and thermal stress tests up to 60 °C. In the cytotoxicity assay, the cream was considered safe and non-cytotoxic at concentrations up to 200 μL/mL, while higher doses showed deleterious effects. The cytoprotection/cytorepair assay revealed that the cream does not have a significant preventive effect against UVB radiation but promoted a reparative effect in post-treatment, increasing cell viability to values close to the negative control. In the in vivo corrosion test, the cream did not cause adverse reactions in earthworms, indicating the absence of skin toxicity. Thus, the formulation proved to be safe and promising as a cosmetic product with cytorepair action, showing this effect mainly at the concentration of 200 μL/mL, suggesting potential application as an after-sun cream.