Análise da influência de parâmetros de processo na capilaridade e índice de brancura obtidos por desengomagem enzimática e oxidativa em tecido 100% algodão

Abstract

The primary textile processing consists of a series of operations that have the purpose of preparing the textile substrate for the subsequent processes. One of these operations is the desizing, whose objective is the elimination of the starch that was applied in the weaving preparation stage. Among the types of desizing, the most commonly used are enzymatic and oxidative desizing, using enzymes and oxidizing agents, respectively. The first selectively eliminates the starch in the material, not degrading the fiber. The second process, simultaneously with the purging and bleaching processes, oxidizes and eliminates the gum, besides saponifying the fatty materials and oxidizing the natural pigments of the fiber. In this way, the present work had the objective of analyzing the influence of pre-defined parameters on the capillarity and whiteness index of the processes cited, using factorial planning. A statistical comparison of the averages of the results obtained from the capillarity of each process and a colorimetric analysis was performed after the dyeing process in the best result obtained from the capillarity of each process. Among the factors presented, for capillarity the process time was the variable that presented the greatest influence in enzymatic desizing and the sodium hydroxide concentration and process time in oxidative desizing. For the whiteness index, the hydrogen peroxide concentration and the process time were the variables that showed greater influence in oxidative desoaking. Furthermore, the enzymatic degumming followed by purging and bleaching showed advantages in comparison to the oxidative process, because it presented better results in the colorimetric analysis after the dyeing process.