Análise do potencial de ação anti-tirosinase e antioxidante da kombucha para aplicação cosmética

Abstract

The cosmetic industry is constantly updating and innovating its products due to high demand and competition. The tendency of consumers to search for more technological, natural and sustainable products makes biotechnology a great ally in this sector. Kombucha is a biotechnological product that comes from the fermentation, most commonly, of black or green tea. In its composition, stand out vitamins, minerals, enzymes, organic acids and phenolic compounds that make it a research source of interest in cosmetic application. Some characteristics of fermentation conditions, such as fermentation time and raw material used, can alter the bioactive characteristics of kombucha. The present work aimed to evaluate the anti-tyrosinase and antioxidant action and to incorporate kombucha in cosmetic formulations. Fermentation conditions were tested and defined, and the one with the best anti-tyrosinase action was selected. For the analysis of the anti-tyrosinase action, the Tyrosinase Inhibitor Screening Kit (Colorimetric) was used, and for the analysis of determination of phenolic compounds and antioxidant activity, the methods of Folin-Ciocalteau and DPPH (2,2-diphenyl -1- picrylhydrazyl), respectively. The sweetened black tea was submitted to the fermentation process for 7, 14 and 21 days and kept in an oven at 32ºC. The antityrosinase action of kombucha was evaluated both for the pure compound and for serial dilutions, as well as comparing the action of sweetened tea and different fermentation times. The sample that contained the pure sample fermented for 21 days obtained the best tyrosinase enzyme inhibition result when compared to the standard (kojic acid). The maximum activation occurred between 20 and 30 minutes with a value of 96.29% of inhibition of the tyrosinase enzyme. The content of total phenolic compounds found was 682.296 mg GAE/L and for DPPH the result was an EC50 of 0.0746 mL/L, confirming the excellent antioxidant capacity of the compound. Preliminary stability tests were carried out on three proposed cosmetic formulations containing 3.0% of the active ingredient of kombucha, facial moisturizing cream, facial serum and eye shot, which showed a positive result to proceed with the next accelerated stability and efficacy tests. of the product, highlighting kombucha as a biotechnological, anti-stain and antioxidant active, very promising for the cosmetic industry.